What if skin became textile?
For his very first haute couture collection for Maison Margiela, Glenn Martens shakes up codes with a radical vision: that of a sculpted, masked body, wrapped in raw materials that look like a second skin.
A remarkable entry into craftsmanship
Presented during Haute Couture Week in Paris, the Artisanal 2025 collection marks a turning point for the iconic house. Glenn Martens – also Creative Director of Diesel – deploys a dramatic vocabulary of elongated silhouettes, recycled materials and architectural volumes.
On the program: translucent trench coats transformed into three-dimensional flowers, dresses made from salvaged beads, bustiers in frozen leatÆher, capes in recycled plastic.
Each look seems to tell the story of a moult, a metamorphosis in which skin becomes matter for reflection
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A contemporary tribute to the margiela spirit
Glenn Martens pays bold homage to the foundations laid by Martin Margiela: the designer’s anonymity, masked models, fascination with arte povera and deconstructed clothing.
But he infuses a new, more intense, almost gothic dramatic tension that sublimates the silhouette in all its theatricality.
When clothing becomes manifest
Beyond the visual shock, the collection raises questions: what does it mean to dress today? What do we hide? What do we reveal? By erecting skin as architecture, Martens speaks of identity, reconstruction and raw beauty – all themes that resonate in a world in search of meaning.
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